Whatever type of makeup you do on deep-set eyes, the thing you should be aiming for is bringing the eyes forward, out from the shadow of the prominent brow bone. When you use eyeshadows that's easily done by applying shimmery, glittery, light-colored shades instead of matte ones. But what if your preferred type of eye makeup is just a flick of the eyeliner and some mascara - how do you balance the deep-set position of the eyes and lift them up? The answer is in a short tutorial below and it's definitely less complicated than you thought.
Where does the crease break?
The main thing to start with is identifying the creases (i.e. folds of skin) on your lid and where they break. Since we're doing a rather classic eyeliner technique with a little flick at the end, it is especially important to be aware of the creases in the outer corner, as they might skew the final look if ignored during the pencil/eyeliner application. Check your eye from the side with your eyes open, from the front with your eyes open and finally from the front with the eye closed. I'm sure many of you have been in that position where you spend an hour perfecting the flick, because it keeps disappearing under a fold of skin when you open your eyes. What you're trying to avoid is basically the crease "eating up" your makeup, so you have to avoid putting it over the crease or in it.
Helpful tip: You can make little dots at the crease(s) you identified from different positions, so that you'll know up to which point you can extend the flick and which direction not to take. Make sure that the dots are positioned right below the crease break, not in it or over it.
Brown kohl pencil
Yep, a brown one, because we'e doing a more daytime-appropriate look. (If you feel black expresses you better, go for it; brown was simply our preference for this tutorial.) A kohl pencil is also a great alternative to gel eyeliners, because it doesn't look as harsh and obvious in sunlight, which is what some girls like better.
Tightline (meaning: taking the pencil as close to the lash line as possible) the upper lash line, finishing with a little flick in the outer corner. The flick should be unobstructed by folds of skin as you open your eyes, which you will be able to do now that you know the importance of avoiding the part where the crease breaks. The line should be thin in the inner corner and slightly thicker as you move towards the outer half of the lid.
Pro tip: You can intensify the color by using a gel eyeliner in a similar shade over pencil and take the look from day time to party time in seconds.
It's quite common that creases are asymmetrically positioned on the left and the right eye, meaning that the crease breaks differently on one eye compared with the other. In that case, what worked for one eye sadly won't work for the other. You might have to draw the flick a bit higher or lower than on the other eye in order to get the same, even flick on both when the eyes are open. We had to do the same thing in the video tutorial above, so check it out to see how we dealt with the problem.
For upturned eyes
The brow bone might be visually pulling your eyes down, even though they are actually upturned. A low-set brow bone (like the one in the video) can limit the height of the eyeliner flick, which means that you won't be able to lift the eyes in that way. What you can do in such case is lining the lower lash line – but just the outer quarter/third. This will emphasize your naturally upturned shape of the eyes and balance them out.
You know the drill, a few coats of your favorite mascara on the upper and lower lashes will finish off the look nicely.
- Lancome Le Crayon Kohl in Chestnut
- Laura Mercier creme eyeliner in Espresso
- Collistar Shock mascara in Blue
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