/ deep set eyes

Maša's going out, I comment on her makeup

It's a special occasion when we find a girl brave enough to be open to criticism from a professional makeup artist. We salute our beautiful model Maša who put her best face forward and shared with us her classic night-out makeup look, while Jure provided commentary from which we can all learn a thing or three.

The basics of base application

Maša started her makeup look by applying a thick concealer where she felt she needed extra coverage – under-eye circles, chin, forehead – and blended everything by tapping in the product with a dense fluffy brush. She applied her medium-coverage foundation with the same brush all over the face.

Pro tip: If you struggle to apply your high-coverage base products and achieve a natural-looking finish, changing up the application technique is a good idea. Fluffy brushes or moist blending sponges, even your fingers(!), will enable you to blend the product into the skin more seamlessly than, for instance, flat foundation brushes. As we always preach, it is better to work in thin layers, tapping on the product, than creating one thick layer of foundation frsom the beginning. Use additional product only where needed, i.e. where there's redness.

If need arises, you can put little points of concealer additionally over foundation, on the spots that need more coverage. Try not to overdo it with this step, because it can quickly turn into cake fest.

Pro tip: If you have blemishes, the pinpoint technique for concealer application is your jam. This means that you apply high-coverage concealer over the foundation only on the spots that actually need extra coverage. Then you blend out the edges with a precise brush, leaving the product on top of the blemish do its job, which is to cover. You will need the same shade of concealer as your foundation for this.

While night-out makeup is all about perfect skin, many people believe they can only achieve that by caking on super thick foundation. What they often don't think about is that artificial lighting, such as the one in the clubs or bathrooms, makes is very obvious when you use too much foundation. By letting your skin show through where you don't have blemishes or redness, using a light-coverage foundation, and focusing the high-coverage product application only on the spots that need it, you create an illusion of an actually naturally perfect skin. Try it out next time.

Contour for your face shape

Kardashian look, i.e. the changing-your-features type of contouring, is out of fashion. Knowing your face shape, its strengths and weakness is in. Creating a balance is what contouring today is all about.

Maša used a cream contouring product to accentuate her cheekbones, directing the contour towards her chin. She also put a bit of the product under the tip of her nose to visually shorten it. To warm up the look, Maša swiped some bronzing powder with a fluffy brush over her cheeks.

Pro tip: For a heart- or diamond-shaped face, directing the cheek contour towards the chin only makes the chin appear more pointy. To balance out the face features, Jure recommends directing the contour more towards the nose or towards that space between the lips and the nose.

Maša's blush application was flawless, just a bit of pink powder blush on the apples of her cheeks to liven up the face after creating a totally blank canvas beforehand.

Highlighting is another way of accentuating the features you have, which is why Maša swiped some champagne-colored highlighter with a soft brush over the apples of her cheeks (above the blush), on the bridge of her nose, over her cupid bow and the center of her chin.

Pro tip: While highlighting gives the appearance of healthy, glowy skin, it turns out better if you have a dry skin type. For oily skin types, highlighting can quickly go south and make you look like a greasy disco ball.

To keep the makeup in place, brush some setting powder over the critical areas, i.e. where you normally get oily.

Classic eye makeup for deep-set eyes

Fill in the brows first, focusing the brow product on the tails and combing through the brows to achieve a natural, yet perfected, look. Our model clearly knows how to do it properly – just watch the video tutorial!
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The colors she chose are complementary to her green eyes, so purple, reddish shades. Starting with a matte mauve shade, Maša applied it in the crease with a windshield wiper motion and a flat rounded brush, as well as over the lid.
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This serves as a transition color. Deepening the intensity of the look in the outer corner of the eyes, she blended in a deep purple, matte eyeshadow. With a clean brush, she then blended the edges of the eyeshadow that she applied a bit over the crease, so that the transition was seamless and not too stark.
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Pro tip: When you want to accentuate your eyes, your best bet is to consult a color wheel regarding the choice of the eyeshadow shades – or just check our website for color theory tips. Colors that are complimentary to your natural eye color will elevate your look.

No classic makeup look can be complete without winged eyeliner. Maša took it to the next level and created an especially dramatic variation by elongating the flick quite a bit over the outer edge of the crease. Her eye shape allows her to do that and still pull it off, but for any other eye shape this is rather risky.
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Deep set eyes need something sparkly in terms of makeup to catch the light and visually bring the eyes forward. With this in mind, Maša chose a shimmery golden shade and applied it along the lower lash line.
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A few coats of mascara on the upper lashes and the eye makeup is finished.
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Lips to seal the deal

As anyone who ever tried to wear an intense color of lipstick will tell you, you absolutely need a lip liner to prevent the lipstick from bleeding over the edges. Generally, it's good to have a similar shade of lip liner and lipstick, but as long as the lip liner isn't darker than the lipstick, any shade will work. Line the lips with the lip liner first. You can overline just a tiny little bit if you want the appearance of fuller lips, like our model.

Pro tip: For a steadier hand when doing precise movements, like liplining or winging the eyeliner, makeup artists often lean lightly on the face with the side of their hand or their pinky finger.

Color the lips with a dark burgundy/fuchsia shade and you have your classic night-out look!
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Products list

products

  • Urban Decay Naked Skin light concealer
  • L'Oreal True Match rose vanilla foundation
  • MAC Burgundy Times Nine eyeshadow palette
  • ZOEVA Cocoa Blend eyeshadow palette
  • L'Oreal Brow Artist genius kit
  • Misslyn Be My Flamingo Forever powder blush
  • TOP SHOP contour cream
  • L'Oreal False Lash Superstar mascara
  • Revolution Ultra Contour palette
  • Ben Nye Media Pro powder palette
  • Misslyn Beach Please Barbados Babe bronzer
  • L'Oreal black gel eyeliner
  • YSL Dessin Des Levres no. 11 lip pencil
  • Catrice Ultimate Matt no. 40 lipstick