What looks good in an Instagram photo won't necessarily look good in real life. Have you ever been in this situation? A very heavy and structured makeup made your favorite social media guru look fierce, but when you tried to recreate it, the end result just wasn't what you wanted it to be. This tutorial will explain how to adapt a strong makeup look to your individual features and coloring to make it look like you were born to wear it.
Classic cut crease
We're going to do a black cut crease on the eyes, so it's obvious that this will be a bold look that is not for the faint of heart. But fear not, because everyone can make it work, with little tweaks here and there, of course. Prime the eyes before you continue with the instructions, as always.
Let's begin by creating a flick in the corner of the eye with a brush dipped in a brown matte eyeshadow. Line the upper lash line from the middle to the outer corner and finish with a flick at the natural crease. Elongate the flick into the crease to create a sort of C-shape with the eyeshadow.
With the same shade, line also the lower lash line up to the middle and connect the lower and the upper "eyeshadow liner"; together in the corner of the eyes.
Lift the eyebrows by applying some light shimmery eyeshadow along the brow bone and under the brows.
Take a black gel eyeliner and a precise angled brush for our next step. With it, follow the eyeshadow line to intensify the cat-eye flick first, and then take the eyeliner also along the natural crease where you already applied brown eyeshadow before. Let the line fade before you reach the middle part of the crease. With the same product color in the C-shape and any blank space in the corner of the eyes (inside the flick, not over it).
Tweaks for hooded eyes: Finish the flick slightly above the natural crease and do everything else according to the instructions above. This will visually change the shape of your eyes, as this is corrective makeup technique. You will also find this tweak in the video tutorial – tried and tested on our model.
Tweaks for downturned eyes: Don't line the lower lash line, leave it bare, so that the dark color won't visually pull down your eyes even more.
Liven it up!
Apply a shimmery red eyeshadow with a flat brush over the lid. Avoid the parts that are already colored with eyeshadow/eyeliner.
Line also the inner third of the lower lash line with the same color (unless you have downturned eyes, in which case leave it bare).
Fill in the eyebrows and apply a few coats of mascara on the lashes to round up the look.
We'll keep it simple and put it like that: apply whatever foundation you like and you know works for you.
As far as contouring is concerned, you will need a contouring powder and a soft angled contouring brush. Contour the top of the forehead, blending the product into the hairline. Make those cheekbones pop by contouring from the ear towards the chin.
Tweaks for oblong face: If you have an oblong face shape, your face is longer than it is wider. Instead of moving in the ear-to-chin direction, which would elongate the face even more, contour from the ear towards your nose to balance out the features.
Apply some blush in a peachy shade on the apples of the cheeks, where skin is the thinnest.
Line the lips with a nude lip liner. You can go slightly over the natural line to plump up your lips, but be careful not to overdo it. Apply a glossy lipstick in a dark brown-pink shade.
Tweaks for a "happier" look: When you have dark eye makeup, dark lips and dark hair combined it can make you look a bit too serious or even sad. To bring out your bubbly side, change the lipstick color for something lighter and fresher, like that bright pink shade we used in the tutorial.
- ZOEVA Cocoa Blend eyeshadow palette
- L'Oreal Gel Intenza black eyeliner
- L'Oreal False Lash Superstar mascara
- RMK Creamy Foundation no. 202
- MAC lip pencil Whirl
- Kanebo Lasting Treatment lipstick
- YSL Touche Eclat highlighter no. 2.5
- Kevin Aucoin contouring powder Medium
- YSL Blush Volupte no.8
- YSL Dessin Des Sourcills no. 5
- Laura Mercier lip pencil Crushed Berry
- YSL Rouge Pur Coutur lipstick no. 19
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